A Country Lunch: Beetroot Tart & Seasonal Kale Salad

Yesterday, the first day of autumn, was bright and clear - a huge blue sky, fluffy white wisps of fast moving clouds and strong sunshine. However it is evident from the chilly breezes coming through the open window that the sunshine isn't quite strong enough to completely erase the the snap in the air.  Summer has succeeded once more to Autumn in that epic aged old battle. 

This day last week, a similar sort of sunshine with a similar sort of air wrapped around me as I stood on a small patch of tall grass, in a gully between a very high old brick wall and a line of thick hedge, every inch of me wrapped up in a white protective suite as I waited for Louise to open the top of the smallish white house-shaped beehive in front of us.

I had the pleasure of attending a gathering at Deans Court, a nearly 600 year old estate set within the charming village of Wimborne.  This gathering, 'Honey & Harvest' was a true celebration of the efforts of the year and indeed the efforts of many over many hundreds of years before. The history of such things, the legacy of the land and the efforts of those who work to ensure its success is not lost on me and truthfully only enriches the experiences and deepens my appreciations. 

Deans Court, it is idyllic in all the ways you imagine the country to be, should be. It is nothing short of an oasis. The stately old home sits at the heart of it all but somehow does not overshadow the  charming outbuildings, cottages, a store and cafe and wonderfully English gardens. Indeed, perhaps my most favorite of all, a veritable Eden encircled by serpentine brick walls, which have seen their share of of seasons. On these walls grow various espalier trained fruit trees in in the middle all manner of vegetables, flowers and fruits. 

Guests gathered around an enormous table, lavishly dressed in linen, voluptuous autumnal flowers and foliage foraged from the grounds and gardens. The glassware sparkled in the early afternoon sunlight an simple but elegant white plates graced each setting. 
Ali, William & Lottie, our hosts for the day, each gave wonderful descriptions of the life and history of Deans Court before a seemingly endless array of dishes were passed around. Each dish inspired by and made with ingredients produced on the farm - all manor of orchard fruit; pear, plums and apples, eggs, kales in various shades, leeks, tomatoes, potatoes, herbs and perhaps best of all roast figs straight from the fig trees inside the walled kitchen garden. 

The recipes for this post are inspired and adapted from a few of the dishes prepared by Julia at Deans Court for the spectacular country lunch. I can think of no better way to showcase the flavors of the season than simple straightforward dishes which capture the bounty and richness of the harvest season. 

For the tart, I have adapted the recipe for spelt crust from the plum galette to work here - I like the rustic texture and nutty tones it lends to dish. I also substituted buttermilk for the cream - its not as lush as the cream would be but its still delightful and a lot lighter. If you wanted a complete meal, a dessert wouldn't go a miss here as this tart is quite light and the kale salad hints at the sweetness of fruit but goes in a more savory direction - 

Baked apples or crumble with a few blackberries thrown in or a few beautifully executed types of local cheeses and a small glass of fortified wine if you are serving this as an evening meal perhaps. 

Beetroot & Goats Cheese Tart 
inspired by Julia from Deans Court
adapted from a recipe by Valli Little

For the Pastry
200g spelt flour
100g cold unsalted butter
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves 
1/2 tsp or about 20 grinds from a pepper mill of black pepper
3 Tbsp ice cold water

Fort the Tart
400g (ish) beetroot
2 red onions
60 ml unfiltered apple cider vinegar
2 tsp thyme leves + a few extra sprigs for serving 
1 tbsp caster sugar 
150g goats cheese 
2 eggs, lightly beaten
150ml buttermilk 
1/4 tsp freshly ground nutmeg 
1/4 tsp ground corriander 
3 tbsp olive oil

prepare beetroot and pastry crust 

for the beetroot - place trimmed, scrubbed beets in a pan of cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer and cook until beetroot is fork tender - this will depend on the size and age of the beets your are using - when beets are easily pierced by a fork through to the center. Remove from heat and let stand at least 15 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel under cold water and dice into 1/4 pieces  - set aside 

for the pastry - 
in a large bowl mix together flour, thyme & black pepper. Either with a food processor or with your fingers rub in the butter until the mixture resembles corse bread crumbs. Make a small well in the middle of the dry mixture and slowly dribble in the iced water a little at a time until the dough comes together in a loose ball. Be very careful not to overwork the dough 
Pat it into a disc shape, wrap in parchment paper and chill for 30 minutes. Lightly grease a 30cm loose bottom tart pan.
On a lighly floured work surface, roll out the dough, about 5mm (just shy of 1/4in) in thickness - line the tart pan and cut away any excess from the edges. Then chill again for 15min 

Assemble the Tart
preheat oven to 180°C

Line chilled pastry shell with parchment paper and pastry weights and bake for 10 mins. Then, remove weights and paper and bake an additional 5 minutes or until dry. 

Heat olive oil in a pan then add the onions, thinly sliced and 1 tsp salt, cook covered, stirring occasionally until softened, aprox 8 minutes. Add the vinegar and sugar to the mixture and cook aprox 3 minutes. Then add the chopped beetroot & 1 tsp thyme leaves and stir to combine. Cook and additional 3 minutes until the mixture has thickened and liquid has reduced. 

Spread mixture over the tart shell and crumble goats cheese over the top. In another bowl whist together the egg, buttermilk, nutmeg & coriander. Pour over the beetroot mixture and top with the remaining 1tsp thyme leaves 

Bake aprox 35 minutes or until set. Serve warm or cold but keep chilled if making ahead 

Kale Salad with pickled Onion & Pear 

1 large bunch of Lacinato Kale 
1 large firm pear
1/2 red onion, pickled 
1/4 cup tasted hazel nuts or cobnuts if in season, cut in half 
Juice from half a lemon
1/4 cup unfiltered apple cider vinegar
3 Tbsp good quality olive oil
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground coriander
1/4 tsp cinnamon 
1/4 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp black pepper
pinch of cayenne pepper 

For the pickled red onion 
place 1/2 red onion thinly sliced in wedges from top to root in a nonreactive bowl sprinkle with 2 tsp of salt and let it stand 10 minutes. Then cover with red wine vinegar and 1/2 tsp sugar. Let stand at least an hour or place in a jar overnight 

Wash kale and remove the thick center rib. Rough chop into 3 inch pieces and set aside 
In a large bowl, mix the spices and add the cider vinegar. Whisk in the olive oil until emulsified. Add Kale to dressing and massage until the kale begins to break down and soften a bit. Let it stand while 

Top and tail the pear, cut in half, core, then slice thinly and toss with lemon juice and a sprinkle of salt. Add this to the kale mixture and top everything with the toasted hazelnuts jut before serving so they stay crunchy 
taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if needed. 


Serve a slice of the tart with a portion of the salad. 

Kuri & Quinoa Porridge

This month I worked on a recipe for the lovely ladies at The Pressery. If you aren't familiar with them, they supply London with gorgeous, all natural almond milk. It make using almond milk accessible and easy in my daily routine since I don't make it myself. Typically it goes into smoothies, but since fall and winter aren't great for fresh fruit and berries, I wanted to find a way to keep using it in my morning routine. 

The recipe below has been the stand out favorite -  a lovely autumnal breakfast; warm, comforting and deeply flavorful. It is gluten & dairy free and uses only natural sugar from the sultanas. I start this the night before - when using kuri squash to top salads or accompany a risotto - reserve around 200 grams for the mornings breakfast. I really like the savory element that the salt, black pepper & olive oil lend the breakfast. 

The same is true for the quinoa - soak it over night (add a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to the water) and in the morning drain and rinse before cooking. It makes nutty fluffy quinoa and cuts down cooking time. 

I have been experimenting with other grains for breakfast such as amaranth & millet but the quinoa has been my favorite

Serves 2 - 4 

You will need:

200g roasted Kuri squash cut into chunks. 

1 cup quinoa soaked over night (if not soaked in water, anticipate needing more almond milk during cooking. rinsed & drained)

2 cups almond milk (1/2 cup reserved for serving)

1/4 tsp fresh ground cinnamon 

1/4 tsp of vanilla paste 

1/4 cup sultanas 

1 small apple washed & chopped into small pieces.

handful each of shredded coconut, pumpkin seeds & chopped raw walnuts 

****

Place a medium sized sauce pan over moderate heat & toast the cinnamon until fragrant. Next, add chopped apple & stir to combine, about 2 minutes. Then add the rinsed quinoa and toast for another 2 minutes. Add the kuri squash & sultanas, stir to combine and quickly add 1 1/2 cups of almond milk  & 1/4 tsp vanilla - bring to a quick boil and reduce the heat to low. Cook until quinoa is the desired tenderness, stirring occasionally - approx 10 - 15 minutes. 

Keep an eye on the mixture while it cooks as you may need to add a bit more almond milk. 

Spoon porridge into individuals bowls and pour a bit of the remaining almond milk over each, making sure it is equally divided. Top with some of the shredded coconut, pumpkin sees & chopped walnuts. If desired, drizzle with a bit of maple syrup.